Rolling off the boat last week, we had this 2015 WRB WRX driven from half way across the state to get it here.
Rolling off the boat last week, we had this 2015 WRB WRX driven from half way across the state to get it here.
We are seeking a sales specialist for 2015.
The right candidate for this position will help new and existing customers discover the products and services offered by Moto East and be able to handle social media/print/online communication.
Helps to have:
This is a part time to start opportunity; you will work from home when possible but be available locally if needed. Depending on experience and skillset, this will turn into a full time position. Pay is a combination of per diem, commission, and profit sharing. Our business model is designed around a low overhead, automated integration when possible, with a focus on our employees. The right person will have a high revenue potential without having to rely on high pressure direct sales. We are an equal opportunity employer. Candidate will be subjected to a background check.
Interested individuals must submit a resume and a bit of info as to why you will succeed in this position.
Inquiries are to be sent to firstname.lastname@example.org, no phone calls will be accepted without a submitted resume.
We made some progress today, and caught a quick break to get on the dyno. Bear in mind our goal was to see if this could do double duty as a reasonable mid range system with upgrade potential, vs a maxxed out system right out of the box. All testing was done on e70, now that we have a sense of where the ignition timing is falling in, we will put pump gas in and watch the knock counts. For these dyno graphs, we added timing primarily to the e85 side as to make sure on pump we don’t run into issues. On with the show….
Strapped down and ready for action:
This is our initial baseline taking the 210 tune, and taking out some timing (a good amount…)
You can see that the power is super smooth and comes on EARLY. This is a torque curve of a strong OEM v8. Did I mention this is on the “low timing” map? Difference is about a couple degrees. Next step is to give it a bit more timing.
Picked up a bunch of mid range with just a small change. This is showing some potential. However, in light of the relatively “low” numbers (I’m brave until about 300 tq on the stock motor) we rolled back some of the cam timing changes so that it can generate close to full boost. This is the result of the subsequent run. Unfortunately the bypass stuck for a second or two, so all the subsequent runs will be best compared at 3500+.
Now we’re having some fun. You can see the gobs of torque we picked up, and this was a relatively minor change. We’re still not at the cam timings we used on the 210. Speaking of the 210, how does that compare on a dyno that reads about 5% higher than this one?
You can see the 335 absolutely destroys it. The 210 plot is on e85, full bolt ons, 70mm pulley, etc…the 335 run is on an 80mm pulley and a mostly stock car with a stock header and cat back on e70. We did change out the front pipe/overpipe since we had the trans off to get the clutch, but those won’t do a damn thing with a stock header and cat back. So there is still a whole lot left on the table. Our experience is that the 70mm pulley should generate about 15% more HP for a given boost level, and the stock header and cat back are surely a major restriction here. But since our goal was to see if a mostly stock car can handle it, this is exactly why we put it back to stock and wanted to test this way.
Now a few more comparisons. This is a 335 vs a turbo kit. Goes to show you that not all HP is created equal, and here particularly despite the equal HP, only one smokes the tires a gear early
We installed a 3 bar MAP sensor to see where the boost is. Drawing a line from the somewhat bumpy boost plot (due to the MAP source being close to the runner) we see that it peaks around 2.25 bar. Certainly a lot to ask of a stock motor.
Also as we transition to pump gas, this is some data we have from the ProECU datalogs. On the first image below, you can as the ethanol content drops (CPS voltage) from e70 to e30, the knock counts go up significantly. This is because of the fact that we’re running such high boost levels, that the standard timing difference for the two fuels is not enough. At 18 psi the FA20 is much more knock prone on pump vs e85.
However, despite going to full pump gas, re-working cam overlap and reducing ignition timing yielded much more reasonable knock counts.
Update 01/2015: Continuing to fine tune the pump gas tune. At this point the car is driving just fine on pump gas, we’ve been getting on it without any worry. With how much power it makes and the current cost of fuel, pump gas is actually a pretty reasonable option with the right tuning.
Also a comparison that shows how peak numbers have nothing to do with how a car drives. Only 13 peak HP apart, but what would rather have?
It is in! Here are some installed photos with our 3″ intake, and make sure to check out the YouTube link as well:
This begins a new chapter for the Moto-BRZ. We’re adding an ACT XT unit to handle the torque, and we will see how far the stock motor will go with this unit!
We try to highlight the nice things we see, but being a full service facility we sometime see some real train wrecks come in through the door. In this case, we had an MX5 that had all the tell tale signs that it has been put in the wrong hands.
Customer called us, chief complaint being that despite a $6,000 turbo system, and thousands more in labor, final HP output was just barely over stock –166 WHP. Over 200 torque down low, but low HP. Thinking it was the “calibration” from another tuner, he brought it over. Our first instinct was that no matter how bad the tune, you simply cannot make less than 220-240 WHP on this car at 10 psi. So we went to work.
First, we checked the basics. Compression turned out fine, datalog showed plenty (too much…) timing, lean but manageable AFRs, and nothing that stuck out as causing a 100 horsepower deficiency. Next and final step was checking the cam timing. Sure enough–cams were out of phase by more than 5 degrees. Turns out the shop that did the installation sold him on a head stud upgrade as being “necessary,” whereas any MX5 expert would tell you that is absolutely not the case. As suspected, the crank bolt was never changed, there was no diamond washer, and the cam timing was off. After a few days we had the cam timing set, proper new bolt and washers installed, and with a quick re-tune the car was off making a good 100 hp more. In addition to the installation issues, there was quite a bit of other things we had to rectify to get it going correctly.
Mystery hose above is actually from the PCV on the intake side. Previous shop left it hanging towards the back with no catch can. After all, what can possibly go wrong when you spew oil all over the exhaust?
Chris holding the PPF frame–all that baked on oil was all over the back half of the car. We cleaned it as best as we could to reduce the fire hazard.
Here you can see us using a flywheel holding tool to keep the crank locked during the final bolt tightening. This motor was an oddball. No tool would fit in to the bind plug hole. For some odd reason, both the length and thread pitch of the bolt were different than any NC1/NC2 motor we have seen (including the forged crank!). We tried turning down a zetec tool, but it not only chewed through our lathe bits being tool steel, but also destroyed itself since it was hollow at the threads. Since we only had a few days with the car before it went cross country, we elected to pull the trans and lock it down the hard way to ensure 100% accuracy. Yes, more work. But worth every penny when you’re this far into it.
This is what third party shops do when they don’t know the mazda/duratec platform. Original OEM crank bolt re-used, no diamond washer. Even if it was timed correctly (which it wasn’t) it would have slipped possibly causing major damage. We put together all of our motors with new bolts and diamond washers as called for by the OEM in the updated service manuals. Crank bolts are stretch bolts, they cannot be reused.
We’ve seen some good kits, and some bad turbo kits. This one was awful. This “battery relocation bracket” is nothing more than a heavy u channel you’d more likely see at tractor supply than in a modern import. The “cross” plate was chewing into the BOV hose badly enough to slice it. We cut the tip of the plate off (pictured) to prevent further damage. I’m not sure how anyone could ever release something like this…but then again….
What you’re seeing here is a cheap plasma cut 1/4″ flange. Not just sloppy, but a 1/4 flange should never be used on a turbo flange like this. It warps and can crack easy, here you can see a leak already developed.
Not pictured is the grossly undersized K&N filter with a PCV fitting on the end. This caused pressure to pull down on it, and cracked the filter. The PCV then leaked tons of unburned fuel and oil vapors into the intake tract to make things worse. Luckily we were able to quickly make a baffled catch can and install one of our air filters to eliminate the source of contamination. And fortunately for the customer there was only a couple thousands miles on the car when he brought it over. So with that being the case, we were able to resolve many of the issues in-house and get him back on the road.
With the hardware portion nearly finished in the engine bay, the next step is to wire up the electronics. For this vehicle we’re using a MS2PNP that is set up for electronic boost control. Overall an incredibly easy to install unit, and the only wiring change (aside from the EBCS) is adding a post-turbo IAT sensor. This is easily spliced into the OEM harness, and with that we will have full timing and fuel control.
Well, not much of a rocket. In fact, it is a 1990 1.6 Miata that has been passed around more than….anyway. This car no doubt has a checkered past truly unknown, and surprised us with clear hints like a drag race strip sticker and signs of “put-back-togetherness,” that you only realize after pulling back the carpets. But that’s ok. Aside from having to trailer it from a neighborhood where 24″ dubs and tinted windows on Landrovers are the norm, the owner had duct taped the torn top together–poorly. As a result it released a torrent of rusty water when we loaded it up on the trailer. Not to worry, we have welders…
Current plan is to restore this car to a track worthy condition, and get it out to some local auto-x events. We’ll be gutting it as much as possible for maximum lightness, and adding in a custom roll bar setup. After that the fun starts!
We spent a few hours working with a customer on a JDL kit. First order of business is to see how our remote tune stacked up. We did the baseline run, then spent about an hour trying some additional variations to see if we could make any more power. Turns out the base tune with the remote revisions was spot on when mated to the wastegate spring.
What you don’t see on the dyno plot is that the boost controller the customer used was not functioning correctly, sending the car to nearly 20 psi. Fortunately our failsafe boost cut saved the motor. Upon arrival we were able to isolate the issue to the boost controller itself, and then did the dyno runs using wastegate pressure only. Despite only running 7 psi past 5000 RPM, we still made a healthy 277 WHP and 235 torque.
A customer wanted to get every last HP out of a car, and we of course are more than happy to do what it takes. While some of the intakes have a large MAF housing, they require pinching of the primary tube to get past the smaller OEM bulkhead, or reuse the OEM snorkel that necks down to 2.5″. None of those are valid options in our book. However, Skunk2 aka Kraftwerks/Grams/Group A, have released their intake which addresses many of those issues. Bigger snorkel, filter, and most importantly, a HUGE elbow from the filter to the TB. We put it on the dyno. Result? A bunch of HP throughout the powerband. A winner in our books! The BRZ/FR-S Skunk2 Powerbox tune is now available as well to remote customers.